Macadamias

Today was one of my favorite days in Guatemala, largely because of the two women I shared it with. J and S are from Seattle and we met at Valhalla Macadamia Estacion. We ended up spending the entire time together, and it was lovely.

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So let me tell you about macadamias. Guatemala exports most of its macadamias to Hawaii, so that can of deliciouness you devoured that labeled itself  “product of Hawaii” was likely 25% Guatemalan.

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Macadamias are great for the environment. When grown properly, using appropriate varities, organic methods aren’t difficult. The incredibly tough shell of the nut is carbon-rich, both a good carbon sink and slow-to-decompose paving material. The trees are not super-heavy feeders, so the don’t deplete the soil. Valhalla gives young trees to local families to build the economy and sustainable agriculture.

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Valhalla uses all parts of the nut. Their drive and parking areas are paved with shell, the green pithy outer layer mulches the trees. Whole nuts are sold as grade A nuts, nicked nuts are used in chocolate or oil.

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Valhalla has the most lovely outdoor bathroom ever.

The leftover meal from pressing out the oil is used in flour, which make unbelievable pancakes. With organic blueberries, which they also grow.

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Also, Valhalla makes all sorts of machines to sort, press, and otherwise process their nuts, which are better-tasting but also more variable in size than Hawaii’s.

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I highly recommend a stop at Valhalla for those near Antigua. The tour is brief but interesting, the food is great, the people and dogs are nice, the place is lovely. And they offer free face massages with macadamia oil, which is, frankly, bliss.

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After our nutty adventure (I couldn’t help it, that phrase has been trapped in me all day. Apologies.) we returned to Antigua and went somewhere really cool. Can you guess where?

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I never would have even considered entering such a place myself, but their coffee is actually quite good here, and the courtyard was great. S and J were right to suggest it.
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Then we walked up to Cerro de la Cruz, a stone cross that overlooks the city. S is a total BA, climbing a zillion steps to the cross four weeks after knee surgery.

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see the volcano?

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J, whose permission I remembered to get to post a picture.

Afterward we went to Nim P’ot to drool over the things we can’t fit into our carry-on bags, but which were tantilizingly inexpensive.
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Then to Hector’s for a light meal of roasted tomatoes with gouda and balsamic vinegar (at least, that’s what I ate). Hector’s is a tiny but nice restaurant next to El Merced.

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what a dork

A lovely day with lovely women.
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Antigua, un otra vex

I have had things to wrte about in the last  few days, but unfortunately my camera has the photos stored in internal memory, and I haven’t  a mini usb cord to retrieve them. So those posts will have to wait.

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dog on the roof of a store, Xela

Today I left Xela and returned to Antigua, on my way toward Tikal. My days at La Democracia escuela are over. I already miss Tatiana, my wonderful teacher, and Y and J, the students I hung out with. And Antigua feels so different.

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Tatiana

Partially it’s because it’s a weekend. Partially because the gringo/Guatemalateco ratio is very different.  But mostly it’s because it’s me. After Xela this place looks so groomed and falsely tidy, as if it IS the Disney village I claimed it was not when I was here two weeks ago.

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I almost can’t stand the prettiness, the considered and primped air of the place. The place is seething with slightly rude tourists (they don’t move on the sidewalk to allow others to pass, and they block doorways–I swear I don’t do that!) And there are groups playing the sort of Muzak “folk” music that offends no one and charms tourists. After the grunge and edge of Xela, this town feels alien. Fake.

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And yet. It is so damned pretty.

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I went to a very lovely set of musems, ate fantastic Indian food, and wandered through the park, bought a present for G (at LAST. Do you know how hard it is to buy man-gifts in Guatemala?!)

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a wedding is about to happen in the museum complex

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And now I’m swinging in a hammock at Yellow House hostel. This is blissful. It’s about 70°, the sun is low, birds are singing…while the traffic noise it constant, it’s almost peaceful as well.

There is something to be said for tourist-inspired attractiveness.

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taken as I write this

Statues

Like most cities, Quetzaltenango loves it’s memorial statures. Here are a few of the zillions that abound here that I particularly like.

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I like the conjunction of a statue honoring indigena women and McDonald's

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It's not often that you see a sculpture wearing a backpack. This Salcaja stature honors immigrant workers.

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My favorite: the fireman carrying the apparently dead child.

Lazy Sunday

Yesterday, I didn’t do much for most of the day. I went to the Parque Central for a while. I shopped for a few small gifts, I was pickpocketed, I ate at a cafe…

Yes, I was pickpocketed of 30 quetzales, or about $4. It was my fault. I was buying something and just stuffed my change in the pocket of my bag. Then when I went to pay for someting else, someone just grabbed the change from my bag as I paid the vendador. That vendador totally saw it, but said nothing. I saw his eyes flicker behind me for a moment, and looked in my bag a second later.

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los ladrones son cerca de aqui

I WAS smart emough to have bits of money secreted about my person, so they got very little. I normally have death grip on my bag, so I think el ladron was watching for his moment. Anyway, it was no big deal, and is hopefully  the only unpleasant  thing  that happens to me in Guatemala–knock on wood!

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los regalos--you will have to guess who gets what

At the Cafe Utz Ha (great sopa de zanahoria) I met another American student and chatted with him for a while, then returned to my house to do laundry and other boring things. In the afternoon I went to my favorite study spot, Cafe Baviera in zona 3. Who should I find there but los otros estudiantes, playing a game called “Jungle Speed.”  I played this most excellent game with them for hours, then we cut out to grab some street food and go to a concert in a park for a little while.

The street food was awesome–muy barato and tasty. I simply had a taco, but the guys ate a torta, which is a sandwich involving chopped up hotdogs, chicken, ham, mayo, mozarella, peppers, onions, and salsa dulce (like ketchup) on a large bun, fried in more mayo. Enormous and gross sounding, but delicious. I tried a bite. Just a bite–that mayo looked deadly. I am totally making these tortas at home, even though they are essentially a heart attack on a bun. We also ate the greasiest, most fabulous churros you can imagine.

At the concert the banda was quite good, but of most interest, at least to the men I was with, were the two dancing girls on stage. The were clad in tiny bikinis and fringed chaps. Their dancing consisted mostly of shaking the fringe, if you know what I mean.

I have no photos of any of this because I stored my tablet at Y’s house. Having just been robbed of a small amount in broad daylight with people watching, no way was I bringing a computer to a crowded nighttime concert, nor mi hija’s camera. You will just have to imagine the dancing girls.

Guatemalan parks

Every town appears to have a central park, which is packed with people. Since the Highlands have few bugs and fantastic weather, everyone lives outside.

Some of my casa’s windows are missing, and others don’t close properly. No big deal, except for last night when I became convinced a bat was flying round my room. Luckily it was just a squeaky noise because I don’t know the Spanish word for bat.* Which I would have needed to yell.

Anyway, here are some park pictures from Toto.

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In Antigua:
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And in Xela:
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*Duh. It’s “bate.”

San Andreas Xecul, Salcaja, and Totonicapan

There are churches all over Guatemala. In fact the oldest churches in Central America are located here. Most of these churches are lovely, Baroque, and white.

Not in San Andreas Xecul.

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The church here is one of the most famous in the country. It is festooned with brightly colored angels, saints, animals, and flowers.

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The interior of the church is not as intense as the exterior.

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There is another tiny church in San Andreas. By tiny I mean “enough room for a few people to kneel.” Though I am not Catholic, I would have lit a candle here for my recently-departed library employee, who suffered an aneurysm a few days ago. But I couldn’t convince the tienda owner to sell me just one or two candles instead of an enormous bunch. Please imagine a candle is burning for Lisa in this picture:

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I had a bit of an adventure getting to see this church  and the other town I traveled to today. An adventure which involved too many chicken buses. Twice I was put on the wrong bus, even though my Spanish has improved to the point that I can coherently ask where a bus is going. The second detour was especially annoying because I KNEW the bus was going the wrong way, and went out of my way to clarify where it was going. I assumed that it was about to make a turn or something after I was assured that the bus was going to Toto (Totonocipan). Oh well, the scenery was lovely. Every time I passed it.

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I also went to the town of Salcaja, which I have to say, isn’t all that exciting. I couldn’t even see the church past the wall of corrugated metal that surrounded it. I went there for only one reason, or acturally two:
1. It’s the place I needed to change my bus
2. It is the only place in the world that sells rompopo, a liquor involving rum, sugar, almonds, egg whites and spices, like egg nog with a big kick. It’s supposed to taste better than it looks.

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Which is good, because it looks nasty.

As I mentioned earlier, I took buses back and forth, and always through Salcaja, the least attractive town I’ve seen so far. I met another Frenchwoman on the bus, N. She speaks hardly any Spanish or English, so it was difficult talking with her, but nice to have company nonetheless. We went to Toto together, though I’m not entirely sure why. Because it was there?

There was a crowded market in Toto, a few fairly attractive buildings, a park, and absolutely no other gringos.

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I didn’t buy anything, though I am now kicking myself for not having done so. I was pretty tired at this point, and not up for haggling.

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Another chicken bus home.

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yes the bus was moving when I snapped this photo

Clothes, dogs,plants

While my life is anything but exciting right now (all I do is study, really) I am still endlessly fascinated with Guatemala. As a gardener, I’m smitten by the plants growing everywhere, such as the Acanthus mollis found growing in all the parks:

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I have always wanted to grow these. And the poinsettias that are 15 feet tall are also lovely.

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And there are dogs everywhere. They’re actually very laid back and just sort of hang out and watch the people go by. How many dogs can you count in this picture?*

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But my favorite thing, besides the nice people, is the clothing. Obviously as someone obsessed with textiles, this is going to be my thing. But it’s pretty rude to just snap pictures of people without their permission, so I only have a couple of ok shots. Perhaps I will become more bold as the days pass.
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Today I simply studied, at a nice cafe (yay Baviera!) with the other students, all of whom far supass my skills. I may go to the Pool & Beer (it’s actually called that) later with some of them, but probably not.

*Hay ocho perros en este foto. But there were two more that you can’t see here.

Zunil and Almolonga

I traveled today with a really nice bunch of people to a small town of Zunil, located in a volcanic crater abut 20 minutes away from Xela. Zunil is famous for a few things–its lovely church, its weavers, and its local saint-devil, San Simon.

Earlier in the day, I worked hard on verbs with mi maestra. This is the room we’re in. It doesn’t look like much, but it has a nice view of the garden.

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After break (and the papas fritas we get from a street vendor)  we played a Spanish version of Taboo. I’m terrible–my vocabulary is pretty spotty, after all. But I have Taboo skillz, so I managed to not utterly humiliate myself.

Then on to Zunil. First we checked out the church. It was a fascinating blend of the Colonial and indigenous, with the various santas often dressed in local garb.

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The we went to a weaving cooperative. Zunil’s weavers are famous for their use of purple. I bought a small piece, but really wanted one that would have cost Q200, or about $25. But I must save my money for things like eating and buses.

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Then we visited San Simon. He is a syncretic icon, usually made from wood. His worshippers dress him, even up to his Rayban sunglasses, and give him cigarretes and booze. San Simon can help you out if you pray to him, but he’s a bit of a rowdy, and you definitely want to appease him. Thus it costs Q20 to take one photograph of him.
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Behind the cofradia where San Simon is housed for one year (he then moves to another house) we saw still smoking offerings: copal, aguacates, huevos, and un pollo.

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Next door a store houses all the stuff that San Simon’s followers might want to offer him, including crate upon crate of “Xela’s finest” alcohol.

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After visiting San Simon, we traveled to another nearby town, also in the bottom of the volcano’s crater, called Almolonga. It’s famous for its exceptional produce, and its natural hot-water baths.

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I feel great. Not so sure about my hypothamlus-adrenal axis, however.